TechN presents high-end CPU water coolers for AMD AM4, Intel LGA 1200 and 2066

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Wow never heard of them. German manufactured even. I wonder how they compare to the Optimus blocks. The Optimus blocks are super restrictive and the difference in temperatures are minimal. 1-2 degrees between decent blocks. I myself run a Raystorm Pro AM4 and I did have to flatten the coldplate to fit my IHS perfectly. This gave me an 3-4 degree improvement. By default it was probably designed for the Intel concaved IHS. But other than that it's a tradeoff between restriction (thinner fins and channels = more cooling surface but more restriction to push the water through the narrow channels) and temperature. The new EK Magnitude seems to nail both. fairly low restriction and best in class thermals, but it's SUPER expensive. They have achieved this by making the surface area of the fins larger and taller I think.
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Am happy with my Alphacool eisbaer frankensystem on my 3900x it happily stays at very reasonable temps just above or below 30degc at idle and has never broken 70degc when fully stressed even for an hour and thats with the minimum fan speed on 140s at the lowest they can go on my board it reports 550rpm and obviously ramped up to maximum dependant on CPU temp although my next Mod will be a coolant temp sensor. As am fairly new to the custom liquid cooling field what is the real advantage of these blocks or the others you mention over mine?
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If acrylic these days means high end then sure I guess these are supposed to be. I personally try to stay away from acrylic altogether in my opinion. A 50-55 celsius cracking/warping point. I mean in some small loops it could be a problem, but POM Acytal isn't going to give one any headache ever. That is what I try to go with all the time. That or just a solid chunk of copper is always a good option.
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DeskStar:

If acrylic these days means high end then sure I guess these are supposed to be. I personally try to stay away from acrylic altogether in my opinion. A 50-55 celsius cracking/warping point. I mean in some small loops it could be a problem, but POM Acytal isn't going to give one any headache ever. That is what I try to go with all the time. That or just a solid chunk of copper is always a good option.
is this actually a problem with EK/bitspower/singularity parts (quality stuff), i've been watercooling for about 10 years now have had many acrylic parts in my build but have never had a cpu block/gpu block or reservoir crack on me even in my early builds that reached 50+ water temp. now granted it's a hobby and i am not made of money so my test pool is about 3 reservoirs and 2-3 cpu/gpu blocks. even asked around on the local watercooling shops forum but nobody had any hands on experience with cracking but had heard of others having the issue (i asked because i was eyeballing the EK full acrylic pumptop/res combo, which is dooing fine but only 1 year old and my latest cooling doesn't let the watertemp get above 46 even mid summer).
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anub1s18:

is this actually a problem with EK/bitspower/singularity parts (quality stuff), i've been watercooling for about 10 years now have had many acrylic parts in my build but have never had a cpu block/gpu block or reservoir crack on me even in my early builds that reached 50+ water temp. now granted it's a hobby and i am not made of money so my test pool is about 3 reservoirs and 2-3 cpu/gpu blocks. even asked around on the local watercooling shops forum but nobody had any hands on experience with cracking but had heard of others having the issue (i asked because i was eyeballing the EK full acrylic pumptop/res combo, which is dooing fine but only 1 year old and my latest cooling doesn't let the watertemp get above 46 even mid summer).
I'm just saying if I've got a choice I personally stay away from acrylic.
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anub1s18:

is this actually a problem with EK/bitspower/singularity parts (quality stuff), i've been watercooling for about 10 years now have had many acrylic parts in my build but have never had a cpu block/gpu block or reservoir crack on me even in my early builds that reached 50+ water temp. now granted it's a hobby and i am not made of money so my test pool is about 3 reservoirs and 2-3 cpu/gpu blocks. even asked around on the local watercooling shops forum but nobody had any hands on experience with cracking but had heard of others having the issue (i asked because i was eyeballing the EK full acrylic pumptop/res combo, which is dooing fine but only 1 year old and my latest cooling doesn't let the watertemp get above 46 even mid summer).
I wouldnt worry, he makes things up to suit how he wants to think. See post 237 https://forums.guru3d.com/threads/geforce-rtx-3080-ctd-issues-likely-due-to-poscap-and-mlcc-configuration.434395/page-12 His follow up in post 269 was debunked in post 274. edit He's continuing it in post 285 Proven wrong again in post 291
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DeskStar:

A 50-55 celsius cracking/warping point.
Where did you pulled those numbers from? All the Plexiglas specifications range from 70-80C. Even the lowest of the low - PVC should be fine up till 60C
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ruukjis:

Where did you pulled those numbers from? All the Plexiglas specifications range from 70-80C. Even the lowest of the low - PVC should be fine up till 60C
Acrylic
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^ Really... Come on, Plexiglas is a brand name of acrylic. Splitting hairs on what one calls the same substance is not productive.
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DeskStar:

Acrylic
Wwweeeeell... if you want to talk about pure Acrylic (which, by the way, is pretty much the same and also TechN clearly wrote that they use Plexiglas), then that just makes your case even worse: "Acrylic (PMMA) is classified as a “thermoplastic”, and the name has to do with the way the plastic responds to heat. Thermoplastic materials become liquid at their melting point (160 degrees Celsius in the case of Acrylic). A major useful attribute about thermoplastics is that they can be heated to their melting point, cooled, and reheated again without significant degradation."
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ruukjis:

Wwweeeeell... if you want to talk about pure Acrylic (which, by the way, is pretty much the same and also TechN clearly wrote that they use Plexiglas), then that just makes your case even worse: "Acrylic (PMMA) is classified as a “thermoplastic”, and the name has to do with the way the plastic responds to heat. Thermoplastic materials become liquid at their melting point (160 degrees Celsius in the case of Acrylic). A major useful attribute about thermoplastics is that they can be heated to their melting point, cooled, and reheated again without significant degradation."
Cool. So since 2016 it's been a different classification. Goes to show how long it's been since I've kept up on it all. Going back over twenty years of liquid cooling things surely have changed. Acrylic was acrylic with zero PMMA at all involved, so yeah thanks for the heads up now. Learn something new every day.
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Cidious:

Wow never heard of them. German manufactured even. I wonder how they compare to the Optimus blocks. The Optimus blocks are super restrictive and the difference in temperatures are minimal. 1-2 degrees between decent blocks. I myself run a Raystorm Pro AM4 and I did have to flatten the coldplate to fit my IHS perfectly. This gave me an 3-4 degree improvement. By default it was probably designed for the Intel concaved IHS. But other than that it's a tradeoff between restriction (thinner fins and channels = more cooling surface but more restriction to push the water through the narrow channels) and temperature. The new EK Magnitude seems to nail both. fairly low restriction and best in class thermals, but it's SUPER expensive. They have achieved this by making the surface area of the fins larger and taller I think.
I have the Optimus block and while more restrictive than many other blocks it is not super restrictive and can be used with any pump. Performance wise it out performed my EK Velocity by 4~5C. It should be close to or equal to the Magnitude for the AM4 but at a far lower price.
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Mufflore:

I wouldnt worry, he makes things up to suit how he wants to think.
Don't even have to go to that thread. Just read posts in this thread.
DeskStar:

Cool. So since 2016 it's been a different classification. Goes to show how long it's been since I've kept up on it all. Going back over twenty years of liquid cooling things surely have changed. Acrylic was acrylic with zero PMMA at all involved, so yeah thanks for the heads up now. Learn something new every day.
Holy crap..... Please do some research. Acrylic doesn't contain PMMA.... PMMA IS acrylic..... I've been dealing with acrylic in some form or another for 30 years or so and you're full of shit. Acrylic does not just magically start cracking at 50-55C. It will ONLY warp or crack if not fastened properly, and even that does not happen at 50-55C. For it to warp, it has to be nearing it's melting point. I have pieces of acrylic that have been within millimeters of objects at 215C+ with zero warping and they're a LOT thinner than what's used for a water block.
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Shame, they do not ship to the US at the current time. When and if they do, willing to give them a try. Not a bad price - 86.22€ ~ 101.24USD
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DeskStar:

Cool. So since 2016 it's been a different classification.
It's been like this since 1933... Please, read some wiki, cause right now you are diving in a see of embarrassment. So here is the thing: theoretically you can temperature-crack Acrylic, but not in a water cooled system for PC. If you have ever seen cracked acrylic in water loop, then that's because it was installed with a hammer OR because the idiot who cleaned the system used vinegar, alcohol or acetone to clean acrylic parts.
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Cant be very serious about their company or products seeing that they have failed to answer queries I made using the contact form on their website. Ive sent two messages so far without reply ....
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mongoled:

Cant be very serious about their company or products seeing that they have failed to answer queries I made using the contact form on their website. Ive sent two messages so far without reply ....
Dear mongoled, if your request still hasn't been answered, please try one more time. We apologize for the inconvienence, we were both overwhelmed with the repsonse and struggling with IT. It may take a while for us to answer, we are doing our best to catch up. Best, Robert TechN team
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Thanks for the reply Robert
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DeskStar:

If acrylic these days means high end then sure I guess these are supposed to be. I personally try to stay away from acrylic altogether in my opinion. A 50-55 celsius cracking/warping point. I mean in some small loops it could be a problem, but POM Acytal isn't going to give one any headache ever. That is what I try to go with all the time. That or just a solid chunk of copper is always a good option.
I had typed up a fairly long rant showing how this is absolute nonsense but forgot to hit 'post reply'. Thankfully some others saved me the time of re-typing it. And fyi, it's just as easy to screw up the threads screwing two pieces of copper together than it is to overtighten screws on acrylic. only tighten till you feel it start to resistance, then do the same on the diagonal screw, following a figure eight pattern. Also, you are far more likely to see PETG fail in a watercooled PC if there is a pump failure than you would with acrylic.