EK Launches M2 SSD Heatsink

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Are these the first 3rd party heatsinks made specifically for M.2? I don't recall hearing about any before. If so, I'm surprised it's taken so long for this to come out. Personally, I'd rather buy those cheap heatsinks mean for RAM chips or ARM CPUs that you glue on. On the other hand, the M.2 slot on my ITX board is mounted on the back, where there wouldn't be room for that much thickness. On my 3rd hand, I don't have an M.2 drive and have no immediate plans to get one, so my tangent is as useless as a 3rd hypothetical arm.
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I would like to know how much this really helps temps on an M.2 drive.
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Are these the first 3rd party heatsinks made specifically for M.2? I don't recall hearing about any before. If so, I'm surprised it's taken so long for this to come out. Personally, I'd rather buy those cheap heatsinks mean for RAM chips or ARM CPUs that you glue on. On the other hand, the M.2 slot on my ITX board is mounted on the back, where there wouldn't be room for that much thickness. On my 3rd hand, I don't have an M.2 drive and have no immediate plans to get one, so my tangent is as useless as a 3rd hypothetical arm.
NO they are not the first 3rd part heatsinks.. Some have been out for a while. Just now starting to kick off. You want as much surface area as possible. Small heatsinks for RAM will not be near as effective.
I would like to know how much this really helps temps on an M.2 drive.
Depends on what you get. On my 960 Pro i would get mid to high 60s under a couple of runs of Crystaldisk benchmark. With heatsinks + fujipoly thermal pads max temp was 38~c Easily worth it if you want to increase lifespan.
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Are these the first 3rd party heatsinks made specifically for M.2? I don't recall hearing about any before. If so, I'm surprised it's taken so long for this to come out. Personally, I'd rather buy those cheap heatsinks mean for RAM chips or ARM CPUs that you glue on. On the other hand, the M.2 slot on my ITX board is mounted on the back, where there wouldn't be room for that much thickness. On my 3rd hand, I don't have an M.2 drive and have no immediate plans to get one, so my tangent is as useless as a 3rd hypothetical arm.
I'm in the same situation as you with the Asus Z170i mITX mobo. I use the mid wall of the case at the heatsink. I purchased a 3mm think thermal pad and stuck it between the SSD and mid wall. My idle temps are 33C and when I run CrystalDisk, it maxes out at 44C.. without it, it hit 63C when very active. I think without good airflow or a large heatsink, these heatsinks are useless.
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Although my Samsung 960pro doesnt get that hot im wondering if i`d void my waranty if i removed the Samsung sticker to fit this.
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You want as much surface area as possible. Small heatsinks for RAM will not be near as effective.
I was thinking more along the lines of one heatsink per chip. That ought to be a greater total surface area. It would also be more ideal in situations with low airflow, since the additional mass per chip could absorb more of the heat. If you can't depend on active or ambient air flow, the next best thing is to increase the mass of the heatsink. Of course, achieving better air flow is always the better route.
I'm in the same situation as you with the Asus Z170i mITX mobo. I use the mid wall of the case at the heatsink. I purchased a 3mm think thermal pad and stuck it between the SSD and mid wall. My idle temps are 33C and when I run CrystalDisk, it maxes out at 44C.. without it, it hit 63C when very active. I think without good airflow or a large heatsink, these heatsinks are useless.
That's a clever idea. For my particular case, I don't think I'd need to do that. My case offers airflow that can directly access the back of the motherboard. It's still limited, but it'd likely be better than ambient airflow that many front-mounted M.2 cards in ATX builds get.
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I was thinking more along the lines of one heatsink per chip. That ought to be a greater total surface area. It would also be more ideal in situations with low airflow, since the additional mass per chip could absorb more of the heat. If you can't depend on active or ambient air flow, the next best thing is to increase the mass of the heatsink. Of course, achieving better air flow is always the better route.
Definitely more surface area with dual sided heatsinks like in article. Much better option than a few ram heatsinks. (i tried both)
Although my Samsung 960pro doesnt get that hot im wondering if i`d void my waranty if i removed the Samsung sticker to fit this.
The front doesn't say removal voids warranty, only the copper sticker on back does. But i took mine off, but just in case i made sure to take it off very carefully and put it on a plastic bag for later just in case i need it.
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I might pick one of these up, I'm only using one m.2 drive but aesthetically one of these would really go nice next to my EK GPU block and if it extends the life of the drive then even better.
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Just ordered one to be assembled, will test it out when it arrives. They're produced 9 miles from where i live 🙂
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Definately need one of these! My 950 Pro gets too hot and speeds suffer. Corsair Air 540 Case with two 140mm front fans but because of the motherboard though not supporting full m.2 speeds it is sandwiched in a PCIx slot between the Graphics and sound card, that probably doesn't help.
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https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MY2NQ8S/ Gnome Tech 560W/mk , $10. Fits perfectly on M.2. The purpose is to block heat from the GPU really. It usually covers the M.2 slots and a heatsink just stops heat from that huge thing from bleeding into the M.2 card. Just remember to peel the label off your M.2 card and stick it somewhere else to save it. Mine came off really easily and I could stick it back on the card if I needed to.
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https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MY2NQ8S/ Gnome Tech 560W/mk , $10. Fits perfectly on M.2. The purpose is to block heat from the GPU really. It usually covers the M.2 slots and a heatsink just stops heat from that huge thing from bleeding into the M.2 card. Just remember to peel the label off your M.2 card and stick it somewhere else to save it. Mine came off really easily and I could stick it back on the card if I needed to.
I used two of those, but replaced stock thermal tape junk with fujipoly. Much higher conductivity.
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Nice!! If I paint the heatsink white and the logo cap black, it will fit my build perfectly! Will order!
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I may be being a little thick here but is there any difference in cooling with the black one vs the nickel one or is it purely aesthetics?
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I may be being a little thick here but is there any difference in cooling with the black one vs the nickel one or is it purely aesthetics?
Literally yes, but that difference is pretty much negligible. Most of the mass is aluminum. Regardless of what you're going for, the outer coating was used for aesthetic purposes. For a metal, nickel is actually a kinda crappy thermal conductor.
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Received it and fitted, idle temp dropped by 1°C (from 35 to 34) and load temp dropped by 10°C (from 60 to 50). The black one that is 🙂
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Guys, which one should I get? As I previously mentioned I found 2 on ebay 560W/mk M.2 SSD Graphite Silica Gel Air Cooling Fin Heat Sink Radiation 10$ shipping including http://www.ebay.com/itm/560w-mk-m-2-ssd-graphite-silica-gel-air-cooling-fin-heat-sink-radiation/182569548031 and Pure Copper Heat Sink 4mm high (there is 2mm version too) 12$ shipping included http://www.ebay.com/itm/m-2-ngff-pure-copper-heat-sink-sm961-960pro-nvme-ssd-thermal-cooling-pad-4mm/122486303588 Its Logical that copper one is the best but its cheaply made, its basically one big copper block with machined square fins. Do you think its still better than aluminum or whatever that is Graphite Silica Gel?
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Someone explain me why m2 drives get so hot. Isn't it just another SSD?