Awesome! Now forget the RGB and release an all black POM Acytal with OLED display. And seeing that 0-99 Celsius degree range rating won't hurt my mentals as much as that acrylic does. "Crrrrrrrrrrack!.!.!.". Always enjoy the write-ups Hilbert...thanks as always...

I know that feeling 🙂 If you get 99°c you might need new radiator and pump depending on your flow. If it's not enough you have also the option to cool the coolant, you will found that in industrial computer shop or (and it work more silent) in nordic fish tank shop, it's less expensive than vaccum cooling and more "everyday use" than LN2 🙂

DeskStar:

Awesome! Now forget the RGB and release an all black POM Acytal with OLED display. And seeing that 0-99 Celsius degree range rating won't hurt my mentals as much as that acrylic does. "Crrrrrrrrrrack!.!.!.". Always enjoy the write-ups Hilbert...thanks as always...

Hi there There is no pump(maybe some sort of industrial Lowara or Laing) and mainly seals and gasket which will last water temperatures higher than 60-65°C and therefore be scared of Acrylic is no point I have used several blocks which have been fully acrylic and no issues although they're prone to cracking if you over tightening the fittings which you shouldn't do, by hand is more than enough, you don't need to use any tools Hope this helps Thanks, Jura

rl66:

I know that feeling 🙂 If you get 99°c you might need new radiator and pump depending on your flow. If it's not enough you have also the option to cool the coolant, you will found that in industrial computer shop or (and it work more silent) in nordic fish tank shop, it's less expensive than vaccum cooling and more "everyday use" than LN2 🙂

If you are see water temperature higher than 60-65°C then you are in trouble for sure and in 99°C I would suspect seals, pump and some gaskets wouldn't last such temperatures maybe for short time I know on friend loop pump failed and he didn't realised that as this PC is used as render node and during the rendering PC just shut down and he went to check and saw reservoir cracked and every seal on fittings and blocks, blocks he run POM Acetal etc and water temperatures from old logs have been in 60-70's Usually I target 30-40°C water temperatures as max for high ambient loops, on my loop I see max water temperature as 24-26°C and in higher ambient like 32-34°C water temperature is still under 5°C from ambient or rather my water delta T is under 5°C Hope this helps Thanks, Jura

jura11:

Hi there There is no pump(maybe some sort of industrial Lowara or Laing) and mainly seals and gasket which will last water temperatures higher than 60-65°C and therefore be scared of Acrylic is no point I have used several blocks which have been fully acrylic and no issues although they're prone to cracking if you over tightening the fittings which you shouldn't do, by hand is more than enough, you don't need to use any tools Hope this helps Thanks, Jura

Thank you. I am well aware of how acrylic works and its temp limits. To have a temp rating on there for that and being that high is pretty much a joke. 55C will see some serious issues arise in your acrylic. I personally do not my coolant go over 30-35 if that. Then again with as many RADs as I have I wouldn't expect anything "more...." I've personally had three different triple Lian Li pump tops fail from XSPC due to manufacturer issues upon creation. Just one more thing about acrylic and if it's not "perfect" it will fail eventually. POM ACYTAL FTW.....

having had my EK CSQ style acrylic cpu block for about 5-6 years and my gpu block for 2-3 years including early on a pretty shitty loop where the water reached up to 56 degree's (with a pump rated for max 50...pump still lives but is no longer used). i must ask what you talking about 😛 having seen a lot of acrylic hate in the comments (infact whenever a block with a acrylic top or part appears), i asked around on the local shops liquid cooling forums doesn't seem like a lot of people are experiencing this cracking issue...or even have any stories to share about it. and having used primochill Vue recently (a excellent system cleaner i highly recommend for no longer then 3 month's) my blocks look brand new nothing to worry about. guess most people are much to afraid of stripping the thread to over tighten them to the point of cracking. also the temps at which acrylic seems to bum out you should probably start to worry about your pump, eheim based pumps are rated for around 50 degree's, D5's range from 50-65, DDC's also seem to do 50-60 depending on model. not sure what starts to fail at that point but i know i want nothing to fail.