iChiLL BLACK

Quite an unsuccessful branding combination.

Unless they bin the chips, and "you" have high temps inside the case, wc a 1000 series card is pretty much useless, since Nv limits will determine max clocks. I have basically room temp +10*F inside my case, and my 1060 will boost to 2025 without added volt/mhz, and max boost is 2100 when adding 80mhz to core, while card uses up to 80% power and stays at 60*C while silent.

Unless they bin the chips, and "you" have high temps inside the case, wc a 1000 series card is pretty much useless, since Nv limits will determine max clocks. I have basically room temp +10*F inside my case, and my 1060 will boost to 2025 without added volt/mhz, and max boost is 2100 when adding 80mhz to core, while card uses up to 80% power and stays at 60*C while silent.

I would say right off the bat that 60c is a lie, it would be absolutely higher than that. Secondly I assume you use 1080p monitor, at 60hz, and without gsync? Make it 1440p or 4k, instantly +10/+15 degree on top, add 144hz, instantly +3-5c, add gsync, instantly +2-3c, and you would hover around 70-75c in games on max settings without FPS cap. Make any card SLI and you run at another extra 5-10c. Hence Yes WC any card DOES make sense, especially for people like me that like things smooth, cool and long lasting with stable clock rates. All those stories about "bla bla my card runs at 90c and its FINE" is not fine. I personally had gtx680 burn down after couple of days playing Tomb Raider 2013 back in the day on 86c. Had AMD cards burn down after working at 85c while rendering (AMD never again). Or two 670's in SLI that i had on which one card (lower one which was even cooler) just stopped working. Literally just died during rendering. And then you spend days or weeks RMA'ing and wasting time and money. And no those cards weren't stock blower cards, all of them are always fancy two-three fan ones, however it doesnt matter, they are all still Bad at cooling. Because they cant keep your GPU cool.