As most of you know, with most videocards you can apply a simple series of tricks to boost the overall performance a little. You can do this at two levels, namely tweaking by enabling registry or BIOS hacks, or very simply to tamper with Image Quality. And then there is overclocking, which will give you the best possible results by far.
What do we need? One of the best tools for overclocking NVIDIA and ATI videocards is our own AfterBurner which will work with 90% of the graphics cards out there. We can really recommend it, download here.
Where should we go? Overclocking: By increasing the frequency of the videocard's memory and GPU, we can make the videocard increase its calculation clock cycles per second. It sounds hard, but it really can be done in less than a few minutes. I always tend to recommend to novice users and beginners, to not increase the frequency any higher than 5% on the core and memory clock. Example: If your card runs at 600 MHz (which is pretty common these days) then I suggest that you don't increase the frequency any higher than 30 to 50 MHz.
More advanced users push the frequency often way higher. Usually when your 3D graphics start to show artifacts such as white dots ("snow"), you should back down 10-15 MHz and leave it at that. Usually when you are overclocking too hard, it'll start to show artifacts, empty polygons or it will even freeze. Carefully find that limit and then back down at least 20 MHz from the moment you notice an artifact. Look carefully and observe well. I really wouldn't know why you need to overclock today's tested card anyway, but we'll still show it.
All in all... do it at your own risk.
Core Clock: 900MHz
Core Clock: 940MHz
Core Clock: 1000MHz
Shader Clock: 900MHz
Shader Clock: 1000Hz
Memory Clock: 4200MHz
Memory Clock: 4900 MHz
Now we left the fan RPM control at default in all circumstances. We reached a very decent overclock guaranteeing better results. Voltage tweaking is an option. With AfterBurner (download here) our stable end result was 1000 MHz on the core and 4900 MHz on the memory. 1.3V was applied to the GPU. The temps did not change very much, DBA levels remain very silent. You can also try and go a little higher by increasing fan RPM of course, your call to make.
Above we have Call of Duty: Modern Warfare 2, maxed out image quality settings as before with 4xAA 16xAF
Above we have Battlefield Bad Company 2, maxed out image quality settings as before with 8xAA 16xAF
Above we can see 3DMark 11 - the Performance mode is applied here. Oh and please do compare back and forth to a reference clocked R6870 as well, quit important.
PowerColor Devil HDX Sound Card Review Today on the slab is a new sound card from PowerColor, who need no introduction from their line of video cards, and it’s a beast, meet the PowerColor Devil HDX Sound Card....
PowerColor PCS Radeon R9 380X MYST review In this review we look at the the new PowerColor PCS Radeon R9 380X MYST 4GB. This graphics card is rendering your games even in the WHQD 2560x1440 range. And all that at a very reasonable price as w...
PowerColor DEVIL Radeon R9 390X review We review the PowerColor DEVIL Radeon R9 390X. This product is Hybrid cooled meaning air for the VRM area and liquid cooling on the Hawaii GPU, now called Grenada. Thanks to this cooler the card hover...
PowerColor Radeon R9 390 PCS+ 8GB review We review the PowerColor Radeon R9 390 PCS+ 8GB edition. The card's equipped with that renamed Hawaii Pro GPU, now called Grenada. It comes fitted with a massive triple slot air cooler keeping thi...